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What is Gharara?
Emerging from the ethnic soils of Lucknow, Gharara is the most traditional form of outfit comprising a short or knee-length kurti, a dupatta, teamed with a pair of wide-legged palazzo pants typically ruched at the knee with some intricate design giving the pant a broad flare. It is also a common ethnic wear worn by the Muslim women of North India, South Asia and most popularly in Pakistan.
Origin and History
The later periods of the 19th century and the early phase of the 20th century marked the birth of the Gharara. This traditional attire was noticed and favored by the royal Nawabs of that era. The women who belonged to the elite ‘Taluqedars’ and the Nawab families donned this attire, as it depicted aristocracy, sophistication, and class amongst the bearers. This outfit was also traditionally considered as a wedding outfit worn by Pakistani brides residing in the Northern regions, thus showcasing the rich essence of their ethnic culture and traditions.
This broad-legged ethnically flared pant is donned along with a traditional kurti that reaches a little above the thigh area, and an intrinsically designed and embroidered veil which is traditionally known as dupatta. The knee portion of this outfit is filled with colorful and ethnic designs and patterns which are crafted either in zardozi or zari designs. This brocaded outfit enhances the glamour of the wearer, spreading a royal and a rich spirit.
It is heavily embroidered with skilled craftsmanship of Zardozi and Zari detailing, and studded with different decorative elements, which enhances the glamour quotient of the outfit by several notches. This 12 metered fabric is an ethnic pant which flares and spreads out like a wave as the fabric produces a crimpling effect on the knee.
During the traditional era, these royal ghararas were only meant to be worn and showcased at weddings and elaborate occasions. But as the years have passed by, lighter and casual versions of Ghararas have come into existence, which enable the outfit to go well at informal occasions. Contemporary designs and prints along with western needle and embroidery work have crawled into the basic essence of this outfit, which has made its appeal more universal.
In today’s day and age, traditional salwar kameez have been given the same gharara effect, which has enhanced its versatility. More vibrant colors, and machine processed printed designs have come into style, giving it a more urban and eclectic appeal. Dainty and pastel shades of colors are given to the outfit by mellowing down its richness and making it look soberer which can be worn on a daily basis. However, it is said that designing ghararas is an art in itself and requires a lot of skill and patience, especially towards the details in embroidery. Today’s designers, however, have adopted several techniques which they use while experimenting with traditional garbs such as the Gharara, while maintaining its traditional stance.